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Friday, May 3, 2013

Car Anti-Theft Guard

 
Fig. 1: Circuit of car anti-theft guard

Fig. 2: Wiring diagram for door switch (S1) 

    Here is an easy-to-build car anti-theft guard. The circuit, shown in Fig. 1, is simple and easy to understand.When key-operated switch S2 of the car is turned on, 12V DC supply from the car battery is extended to the entire circuit through polarity-guard diode D5. Blinking LED1 flashes to indicate that the guard circuit is enabled. It works off 12V power supply along with current-limiting resistor R4 in series. 
    When the car door is closed, door switch S1 is in ‘on’ position and 12V power supply is available across
resistor R1, which prevents transistor T1 from conducting. In this position, anti theft guard circuit is in sleep mode. When someone opens the car door, switch S1 becomes ‘off’ as shown in Fig. 2. As a result, transistor T1 conducts to fire relay -driver SCR1 (BT169) after a short delay introduced by capacitor C1. Electromagnetic relay RL1 energizes and its N/O contact connects the power supply to piezobuzzer PZ1, which starts sounding to indicate that someone is trying to steal your car. To reset the circuit, turn off switch S2 using car key. This will cutoff the power supply to the circuit and stop the buzzer sound. 
    Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and house in a small box. Connect switch S1 to the car door and keep piezobuzzer PZ1 at an appropriate place in the car. • 





AUTOMATIC LOW-POWER EMERGENCY LIGHT

Here is a white-LED-based emergency light that offers the following advantages: 
1. It is highly bright due to the use of white LEDs. 
2. The light turns on automatically when mains supply fails, and turns off when mains power resumes. 
3. It has its own battery charger. 

When the battery is fully charged, charging stops automatically. The circuit comprises two sections: charger power supply and LED driver.The charger power supply section is built around 3-terminal adjustable regulator IC LM317 (IC1), while the LED driver section is built around transistor BD140 (T2). 
In the charger power supply section, input AC mains is stepped down by transformer X1 to deliver 9V, 500 
mA to the bridge rectifier, which comprises diodes D1 through D4. Filter capacitor C1 eliminates ripples. Unregulated DC voltage is fed to input pin 3 of IC1 and provides charging current through diode D5 and limiting resistor R16. By adjusting preset VR1, the output voltage can be adjusted to deliver the required charging current. When the battery gets charged to 6.8V, zener diode ZD1 conducts and charging current from regulator IC1 finds a path through transistor T1 to ground and it stops charging of the battery. The LED driver section uses a total of twelve 10mm white LEDs. All the LEDs are connected in parallel with a 100-ohm resistor in series with each. The common-anode junction of all the twelve LEDs is connected to the collector of pnp transistor T2 and the emitter of transistor T2 is directly connected to the positive terminal of 
6V battery. The unregulated DC voltage, produced at the cathode junction of diodes D1 and D3, is fed to the base of transistor T2 through a 1kilo-ohm resistor. 
When mains power is available, the base of transistor T2 remains high and T2 does not conduct. Thus LEDs are off. On the other hand, when mains fails, the base of transistor T2 becomes low and it conducts. This makes all the LEDs (LED1 through LED12) glow. The mains power supply, when available, charges the battery and keeps the LEDs off as transistor T2 remains cut-off. During mains failure, the charging section
stops working and the battery supply makes the LEDs glow. Assemble the circuit on a general-purpose PCB and enclose in a cabinet with enough space for battery and switches. Mount the LEDs on the cabinet such that they light up the room. A hole in the cabinet should be drilled to connect 230V AC input for the primary of the transformer. 


50 Watt Small Homemade Inverter

A 50 watt inverter might look quite trivial, but it can serve some useful purposes to you. When outdoors, this small power house can be used for operating small electronic gadgets, soldering iron, table top radios, incandescent lights, fans etc.

Let’s learn how to build this homemade 50 watt inverter unit, beginning with a brief description regarding the circuit diagram and its functioning:

Circuit Description

The circuit may be understood with the following points:
Referring to the figure, transistors T1 and T2 along with the other R1, R2, R3 R4, C1 and C2 together form a simple astable multivibrator (AMV) circuit. A multivibrator circuit basically is composed of two symmetrical half stages, here its formed by the left and the right hand side transistor stages which conduct in tandem or in simple words the left and the right stages conduct alternately in a kind of a perpetual “motion”, generating a continuous flip flop action.
The above action is responsible of creating the required oscillations for our inverter circuit. The frequency of the oscillation is directly proportional to the values of the capacitors or/and the resistors at the base of each transistor.
Lowering the values of the capacitors increases the frequency while increasing the values of the resistors decreases the frequency and vice versa. Here the values are chosen so as to produce a stable frequency of 50 Hz.
Readers, who wish to alter the frequency to 60 Hz, may easily do it by just changing the capacitor values appropriately.
Transistors T2 and T3 are placed at the two output arms of the AMV circuit. These are high gain; high current Darlington paired transistors, used as the output devices for the present configuration.
The frequency from the AMV is fed to the base of T2 and T3 alternately which in turn switch the transformer secondary winding, dumping the entire battery power in the transformer winding.
This results in a fast magnetic induction switching across the transformer windings, resulting the required the mains voltage at the output of the transformer.


Parts Required


You will require the following components for making this 50 watt homemade inverter circuit:
R1, R2 = 100K,
R3, R4 = 330 Ohms,
R5, R6 = 470 Ohms, 2 Watt,
R7, R8 = 22 Ohms, 5 Watt
C1, C2 = 0.22 uF, Ceramic Disc,
D1, D2 = 1N5402 or 1N5408
T1, T2 = 8050,
T3, T4 = BC316,
T5, T6 = 2N3055 (TO-220)
General purpose PCB = cut into the desired size, approximately 5 by 4 inches should suffice.
Battery: 12 volts, Current not less than 10 AH.
Transformer = 9 – 0 – 9 volts, 5 Amps, Output winding may be 220 V or 120 volts as per your country specifications
Sundries: Metallic box, fuse holder, connecting cords, sockets etc


Testing and Setting Up the Circuit

After you finish making the above explained inverter circuit, you may do the testing of the unit in the following manner:
Initially do not connect the transformer or battery to the circuit.
Using a small DC power supply power the circuit.
If everything is done rightly, the circuit should start oscillating at the rated frequency of 50 Hz.
You can check this by connecting the prods of a frequency meter across T3’s or T4’s collector and the ground. The positive of the prod should go to the collector of the transistor.
If you don’t own a frequency meter, never mind, you do a rough checking by connecting a headphone pin across the above explained terminals of the circuit. If you hear a loud humming sound, will prove that your circuit is generating the required frequency output.
Now it’s time to integrate the battery and the transformer to the above circuit.
Connect everything as shown in the figure.
Connect a 40 watt incandescent lamp  at the output of the transformer. And switch ON the battery to the circuit.

The bulb will immediately come ON brightly…..your homemade 50 watt inverrer is ready and may be used as desired by for powering many small appliances whenever required.



Thursday, May 2, 2013

Long range FM transmitter


The power outputs of most of these circuits are very low because no power amplifier stages were incorporated. 
The transmitter circuit described here has an extra RF power amplifier stage, after the oscillator stage, to raise the power output to 200-250 milliwatts. With a good matching 50-ohm ground plane antenna or multi-element Yagi antenna, this transmitter can provide reasonably good signal strength up to a distance of about 2 kilometres.
The circuit built around transistor T1 (BF494) is a basic low-power variable-frequency VHF oscillator. A varicap diode circuit is included to change the frequency of the transmitter and to provide frequency modulation by audio signals. The output of the oscillator is about 50 milliwatts. Transistor T2 (2N3866) forms a VHF-class A power amplifier. It boosts the oscillator signals
� power four to five times. Thus, 200-250 milliwatts of power is generated at the collector of transistor T2.
For better results, assemble the circuit on a good-quality glass epoxy board and house the transmitter inside an aluminium case. Shield the oscillator stage using an aluminium sheet.
Coil winding details are given below:
L1 - 4 turns of 20 SWG wire close wound over 8mm diameter plastic former.
L2 - 2 turns of 24 SWG wire near top end of L1.
(Note: No core (i.e. air core) is used for the above coils)
L3 - 7 turns of 24 SWG wire close wound with 4mm diameter air core.
L4 - 7 turns of 24 SWG wire-wound on a ferrite bead (as choke)
Potentiometer VR1 is used to vary the fundamental frequency whereas potentiometer VR2 is used as power control. For hum-free operation, operate the transmitter on a 12V rechargeable battery pack of 10 x 1.2-volt Ni-Cd cells. Transistor T2 must be mounted on a heat sink. Do not switch on the transmitter without a matching antenna. Adjust both trimmers (VC1 and VC2) for maximum transmission power. Adjust potentiometer VR1 to set the fundamental frequency near 100 MHz.
This transmitter should only be used for educational purposes. Regular transmission using such a transmitter without a licence is illegal in India

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

100watt sub woofer amplifier circuit

Description
This is the circuit diagram of fully transistorized sub woofer amplifier that can produce  an output of
100w .There are seven transistors including four in the output stage. Transistors Q1 and Q2 form the
pre-amplifier stage. Transistors Q4 and Q7 from the output stage.Since no ICs are used the circuit is very 
robust and can be easily assembled on a general purpose PCB.  

Notes
  • The circuit can be powered from +35v /-35, 5A dual power supply.
  • Use 100W ,12 inch sub woofer at output.
  • All electrolytic capacitors must be rated 100V.
  • Transistors Q4 and Q7 must be fitted with heat sinks. 

Tester For Remote Control


                                                                                                   

Here is a simple tester for checking the basic operations of an infrared remote control unit. It is low-cost and easy to construct. The tester is built around infrared receiver module TSOP1738. Operation of the remote control is acknowledged by a tone from the buzzer. The circuit is sensitive and has a range of approximately five meters  The integrated IR receiver detects, amplifies and demodulates IR signals from the remote control unit. The piezobuzzer connected at its output sounds to indicate the presence of signal from the remote control unit. As shown in Fig. 1, output pin 3 of IR receiver module TSOP1738 (IRX1) normally remains high and the piezobuzzer is in silent mode. When the IR module I R X 1 receives an i n f r a r e d signal, its
output goes low and, as a result, the piezobuzzer sounds to indicate the reception of signal from the remote (such as TV remote control unit). P o w e r supply for the circuit is derived from the mains using a capacitive potential dropper, a half-wave rectifier, a shunt regulator and associated components. Make sure that capacitor C1 is of X2 type. Use a suitably small enclosure to make the unit handy. Assemble the circuit on a general purpose PCB and enclose in a cabinet. Make sure that the IR receiver module is placed on the front panel of the cabinet so that it can receive the IR signals easily. Before soldering/connecting the shunt regulator and IR module, refer
Fig. 2 for the pin configuration.




Low power amplifier circuit using lm386

  • C - 250uF, 16V